Up and over the Downs!

Well, today is Sept 4th and usually I would be returning to school and going through the rituals of a new year, but here I am in s England and later this week its off to France for 2 weeks cycling in Normandy and Brittany. This would seem to be a preferable way to spend September!

The past week has been spent riding through the very pleasant countryside of Hampshire, which is just about tailor made for this activity. The quiet roads still exist, with picturesque villages and enough attractive pubs to be a major distraction. (thankfully I have been most temperate under these most tempting of circumstances). The cycling has entailed short hops of 20-30miles, and the rolling chalk 'downs' of England do not pose the same level of effort as the s. Wales coastline. Winchester and Salisbury are two ancient cathedral towns which have expelled traffic from their narrow medieval cores and retained enough of the distinctive architecture to make them very pleasant to visit; and of course for those of us interested in history - say no more! I was fortunate enough to visit the cathedrals in each city early in the morning, which seems to be the time for the organist to practice. Nothing quite like a cathedral with the organ at full tilt, but boy are they cold and dank places - not a lot of warmth and coziness attached to medieval Christianity, but soaring architecture in the glory of God.
Surprisingly there is still a lot of thatch used for country houses in this area, and apparently it can last as long as conventional roofs, and does make for some nice pictures (see attached)
Speaking of beers and pubs (weren't we?) here are some of the better pints I've tried recently - Hogsback Summer Ale, Ringwood Big Thumper, Fuller's London Pride, and 'Fursty Ferrett!!
Some pub pictures too I think in next post.
One place I didn't visit was Stonehenge which is reported to be most disappointing as the site is now fenced off, so it is circled at a distance, with hundreds of others, while the traffic noise from a major A road rumbles by. There is another equally impressive stone circle farther west at Avebury that i may try to get to later in the trip.

From Salisbury to the New Forest ( new in the 1500s that is) and still with its own set of rules and privileges for people who live there. but a real mecca for walkers and cyclists, who mix with the large wild horse population which wanders freely, somewhat like the holy cows of India, enjoying the benefits of petting (and inevitable feeding!) by the muggles.
First class pub at the White Buck Inn, Burley.
Stayed at YH in Burley - most people in regular YHs seem to be outdoor types, as opposed to indep hostels which seem to cater to young traveller types. I fit in with the other old farts in the YHA hostels, all of us snoring and farting together!
From there to Frymington and by ferry to the Isle of Wight, just a half hour across the Solent from Southampton and Portsmouth. Again nice ride across the island from Yarmouth to Cowes, Newport to Shanklin. Another splendid pub meal at the Steamer Inn, Franklin.
And so on to Portsmouth by ferry the next day, with its strong maritime historical roots, the HMS Victory sitting not far from modern day British naval war vessels in the harbour.
The papers are announcing today that Br. troops are withdrawing from s. Iraq, as the new PM Gordon Brown begins the inevitable pull out, much to George Dubya's disapproval.
And so to my sisters again by last afternoon train, and in the warm welcome , news that she is virtually retired (at 50 minus two months!!) due to company restructuring - naturally she and John are delighted by the turn of events. Good luck to them.
Off to France on Thursday - talk to you later, and hopefully some more pics will show up later today.
Best to one and all.
H